Altyn Arashan

3558709598 24d00e34fc b Altyn Arashan

Altyn Arashan

A couple of days ago we hiked out of the alpine town of Karakol to Altyn Arashan, joined by Christine from the US who we met in town (and who gave us some awesome travel tips for China where she has been living for the last four years – thanks Christine!).

Given the elevation of the valley is 3,000 metres we were a little out of breath at the end of the hike, but the views the whole way were well worth it, as was the presence of hot springs at the top to ease those post-hike aching muscles! We spent the night in a home stay mountain lodge – definitely on the chilly side after sundown. After two and a half years living in the bright lights of London it was awesome to see a night sky carpeted with stars.

The place is beautiful and we were incredibly lucky to get such sunny, clear weather. Pics and video below:

 Altyn Arashan

Sunset in the Altyn Arashan Valley

 Altyn Arashan

Hiking in the Altyn Arashan Valley

 Altyn Arashan

Horses in the Altyn Arashan Valley

To view all our Kyrgyzstan images go here.


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Altyn Arashan

Observations from Uzbekistan

policeman1 Observations from Uzbekistan

Uzbek police officer in Samarkand – you are rarely far from one of these fellows anywhere in Uzbekistan

So in the tradition of the recent Turkey post, here are some of my top observations from our time in Uzbekistan. It should be said loudly and clearly that these observations should be taken with quite a few grains of salt. I don’t speak Uzbek or Russian, which no doubt would have altered the experience considerably. I also only spent two weeks in the country and I have only visited a handful of places.

That being said, we have enjoyed our time here in Uzbekistan immensely. We were nervous to say the least about the police presence and were expecting to be stopped regularly for passport checks and to be quizzed about our travels – though this only happened once and was a painless experience. We were also a bit wary of the cash situation with a dearth of ATMs and the subsequent need to carry wads of USD to exchange for bricks of Uzbek sum, but again this all seemed to be relatively painless. The ancient monuments and cities in Uzbekistan, as my previous post has highlighted, are spectacular and the people so friendly and accommodating. We even got an unexpected dose of Uzbek hospitality on our last night in the country in the city of Andijon where we were pulled off the street to join a massive wedding reception.

So without further ado let me observe:

  1. Police – as per the caption under the image at the top of this post, you can’t help but notice the police in Uzbekistan. It would be fascinating to know the ratio of police to civilians  – they are everywhere.
  2. Money – you certainly need to be cashed up in Uzbekistan – more in the literal sense than the figurative. You see, the biggest Uzbek note is roughly worth 60 cents, carrying the relatively small amount of $100 US was a unique challenge.

    money1 Observations from Uzbekistan

    Elizabeth with the equivalent of $100 US dollars

  3. Food – carbs and fat aren’t hard to come by that’s for sure. Uzbeks are very proud of their national dish plov, an oily fired rice topped with poor cuts of meat, meat fat and tripe combined with strips of carrot and perhaps raisons – it tastes as good as it sounds. That being said we hardy starved and they must have some of the prettiest bread in the world.
  4. Outdoor relaxation – not unique to Uzbekistan of course, but they certainly do have lounging al fresco sorted what with the cushy tapchans (tea beds), hidden leafy green courtyards and seemingly never ending pots of choy (tea).
  5. Decoration – be it interior, exterior or personal decoration, Uzbekistan knows how to so it with colour, detail and splendour.

    decor Observations from Uzbekistan

    Beautiful interior decoration at Mubinjon’s in Bukhara

  6. Tashkent Metro – the Tashkent Metro stations are staggeringly beautiful. Each has its own look, from cathedral like arches, cosmonaut inspired space scenes or ballrooms with chandeliers – words cannot describe. Unfortunately for me, they were also designed to serve as nuclear bomb shelters, so taking photos is strictly forbidden.
  7. Korea – in addition to large ethnic Korean communities across the country, Uzbekistan has a strong trading relationship with Korea. Uzbekistan sells uranium to Korea, the two countries are  both testing for oil and Korea has large Daewoo manufacturing plants based in the country (as evidenced by the extraordinary predominance of Damas, Nexias and little Matizes on the road)
  8. ‘AYGEN Styled in Italy’ plastic bag – this random bag is absolutely everywhere in Uzbekistan and when I say everywhere I mean every second shop and every single stall owner at the bazaars were handing them out. I assume it was meant to say agency, but somebody stuffed up along the way and they sold the mistakes onto a large plastic bag distributor in Uzbekistan.  (PS – it seems these babies are also flourishing in Kyrgystan along with, randomly for our UK readers and Australian readers respectively Morrisons and Sportgirl bags)
  9. bag Observations from Uzbekistan

    This shot was taken in Samarkand, but really could have been anywhere that bags were being handed out

  10. Hand on heart – accompanied by a gentle tilt of the head, this simple gesture of placing one’s right hand on on one’s heart is commonly used by Uzbeks to show thanks, acknowledge a compliment or in greeting. We even found ourselves doing it  – using it to express our feelings where our language failed us.
  11. Grangos – when in South America we were on the Gringo Trail – gringo being the term used there to identify westerner tourists. But here, amongst hordes of empty nester travellers from Europe it felt at times like we were on the ‘Grango’ Trail.

Next we travel east to Kyrgyzstan where we expect to be hiking hills and around lakes, riding horses and fulfilling a lifelong dream of Elizabeth’s to sleep in a yurt.

We are now inKyrgyzstan and uploading images where and when we can, though connections tend to be slow.

For all our Uzbekistan images go here.


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Observations from Uzbekistan

Ten observations about Turkey

img 0688 thumb Ten observations about Turkey

Atatürk

Well people, the masthead at the top of this page needs changing as today is our last day in Turkey. We fly for Uzbekistan tonight and then will be travelling overland for the next few months through Central Asia and China.

Turkey has been an amazing and fascinating. It is my first visit to the country, Elizabeth’s second (she was here exactly 11 years ago). Whenever she mentioned this fact to the locals they would, without fail, respond with ‘a hell of a lot has changed in the last ten years’, and Elizabeth agreed. The days of westerners travelling around like a colonialist inspecting a far flung outpost of the empire are over. Turkey is no longer cheap – a beer at a bar is roughly $5 AUD or £2.50 – and there is a large middle class of domestic tourists that drive shiny new cars and surf the net on their iPhones. Of course beyond making a bigger dent in our budget than expected this is not at all bad thing.

It is impossible to sum up such a vast country in a short blog post, so instead I thought I would list the ten things, in no particular order, that stood out for me:

  1. Atatürk – the father Turk may have died in 1938, but he is still omnipresent. There are statues of him it seems in every town square, every main street seems to be named after him and his photo adorns the walls of every establishment be they large/small, touristic/official or otherwise.
  2. The special relationship – the Turks seem to really respect that Australians will travel to the other side of the world to honour and respect the men who fought in a battle in World War I. They consider the relationship with Australia a very important one and I expect will become more regular tourists of Australia in the coming years.
  3. Rising middle class – as I mentioned above there is a real sense of prosperity in this country and a middle class that Elizabeth didn’t remember from last time.
  4. Bus services – the complimentary drinks and snack services on the Turkish coaches would put many airlines to shame – and I am not talking about one of those nasty budget airlines.
  5. Half finished buildings – there seems to be a hell of a lot of people in Turkey that can build concrete slabs many stories into the sky. Though there appears many less people who can build walls, doors and windows. This may be the result of ye olde credit crunch?
  6. Turkish music – In the Turkish top 20 there appeared to be not one Western song. The entire chart was made up of what I assume are local Turkish artists. Not that they are ignorant to Western music – they just seem to like their own better.
  7. Seasonal tourism – the coastal towns in the south of the country appear to survive solely on the tourist dollar. Given we were visiting these places before ‘the season’ many were completely empty. Some of the smarter tourism operators we spoke to advised they were working on ways to attract tourists through winter via walking tours and the like.
  8. European Union – It seems EU entry is still a way off for Turkey, but none of the people we spoke to were too concerned about that and figured that Turkey was doing just fine on its own.
  9. Smoking – every man and most women smoke it seems. And unlike Europe, US and Aus there is not yet a ban on smoking indoors. Funny how quickly one forgets how nasty cigarette smoke is. Apparently the restaurant smoking ban is due to hit in July which will be a shock to the system.
  10. History – there is just so much history packed into this one country. There are so many historic sites that they have only excavated about 30% of them – there is just not the resource to do it all.

Turkey in short has been amazing, but our next stop, Uzbekistan, calls. I don’t think it will be as easy as tourist-friendly Turkey. They are a little more wary of outsiders there and they are much less likely to speak English, which will no doubt pose a bit of a problem given we speak absolutely no Russian or Uzbek. As such we requested the lovely lady who has been helping us with our visas to write out a passage in Russian for us to give to the immigration officials when we land:

Пожалуйста могли бы Вы оформить нас побыстрее у нас утренний рейс в Ургенч в 07.00. Мы боимся не успеть на него.

We hope it informs him of the fact that we have a connecting flight to catch and that we need to move quickly to catch it. Though it could just as easily say that we think Uzbekistan is a sham nation and that we intend to wipe our asses on their national flag. Wish us luck!!!!

See all our Turkey images here.

lg share en Ten observations about Turkey


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Ten observations about Turkey

From the coast to Cappadocia

img 1060 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Elizabeth enjoying her last swim before Thailand

Sorry for the dearth of updates, but posts repeating the fact that yet another day has been spent lounging around, drinking Efes Pilsener and going for the occasional dip in the Med was not likely to go down well. Especially for our London based readers. Though take heart in the fact, as the above image’s caption states, that we will be largely landlocked until we arrive in Thailand in July.

Kaş, and Olympos were our last two seaside stops. In Kaş, a nice little seaside town populated with the type of shops not out of place in Noosa, we took in a spot of sea kayaking over sunken ruins and amongst ancient Christian monasteries.

dscn0384 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Sea kayaking near Kaş

In Olympos, less Noosa more Nimbin, we stayed in a treehouse and spent two days lazing around and lying on the beach. Not much else to do there really, though Elizabeth managed to locate some ruins. Me convinced that the Olympos version of the  Lycian tomb was going to look no different than the other 13 or so she had dragged me to decided to remain prone. The tomb picture is below – worth the hike up the hill? “Another Efes please, the little lady is going for a walk, but I am staying right here.”

lyciantomb thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Yet another Lycian tomb…

From the coast we travelled north to Cappadocia, the land of fairy tale chimneys and cave houses.

img 1162 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Love Valley – couldn’t work out why the valley got its name…

In Cappadocia we saw church after church carved into the rock and also visited Derinkuyu, an enormous city carved underground around the 7th century AD for the purpose of defending the town’s people from attack by invaders.

img 1215 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Elizabeth in the narrow passages of Derinkuyu, some 65 metres underground

As I write this post I am sitting on a bus travelling to Turkey’s capital Ankara where we will change buses to return to Istanbul. In Istanbul we will change our money to US dollars, stash our money in various pockets of our bags (ATMs are apparently very thin on the ground across Uzbekistan, so we need to carry all the cash we will need there with us) and prepare to deal with rather strict customs officials at the Uzbek border in Tashkent.

Until then enjoy some more photos from the last week or so:

img 1149 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Cave houses in Cappadocia

img 1204 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Rock church fresco that proves, if anybody doubted it, that red heads are indeed the ones closest to God

img 1186 thumb From the coast to Cappadocia

Love the iconic VW bug, but need somewhere to house all your hippy belongings? Then the bugombi is just the thing!


Video of kids dancing in the streets in Goreme

All our Turkey images can be found here.

lg share en From the coast to Cappadocia


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 From the coast to Cappadocia

Bodrum

Bodrum is a beautiful seaside town, home to warm weather, picturesque white homes and when summer rolls around sun burnt drunken package deal tourists.  We have missed the start of the season, but one definitely gets the feeling that this place is gearing up for an onslaught of alcohol fuelled mayhem . But when this happens we will be long gone – we leave for Fethiye tomorrow where we are hoping to hop on a yacht for a couple of days sailing the Aegean.

A nice spot to break our journey around the coast to enjoy the sun and the sea  (though haven’t managed a swim yet – wasn’t quite warm enough). It also afforded some nice scenery to take pictures of.

View from our window 300x170 BodrumView from our window with the hills in the background

Bodrum harbour BodrumBodrum Marina

Halikarnis BodrumHalikarnas

Halikarnas is a clubbers’ institution since the 1970s and can hold 5,000 people. Top international DJs perform over the summer and apparently it has a class IV laser – whatever that means. Thankfully it was closed when we were in Bodrum as it was just down the road from our hostel and if the sound checks were anything to go by causes quite a stir – quite disagreeable really…

img 0720 thumb BodrumCastle of St Peter was built in 1402 and was originally a castle for the Crusades. It was in operation right up to the end of WWI

img 0751 thumb BodrumShe was offering us the map she was holding, but was happy to get her photo taken – check that pose!


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Bodrum

Ephesus

Nothing like an overnight bus to get you ready for the day ahead!

You see we arrived in Selçuk today at 7.00 am having spent the last 8 hours on a bus. Quite a nice bus, but still a bus and definitely not as good as the Argentinean buses that makes sleeping a dream. So stumbling in to the Australia New Zealand Pension (everything in Turkey in any way connected to tourism seems to tag Australia and New Zealand onto its name somehow) and being greeted with a broad Aussie-tinged Turkish accent telling us “rack off upstairs, there is a room free now, you guys must be buggered. Breaky is anytime before 10.00 am,” was pure bliss.

Having slept off the bus blues and brunched we took a stroll out to Ephesus, 3kms out of the town and which according to the book is the best preserved classical city in the east Mediterranean. The place is a pretty amazing site where the ruins have been put back together, at least in a fashion, to recreate the feeling of what the town would have looked like.

The place was a regional capital during Roman times and was home to stars you might remember from the bible, such as St Peter, The Blessed Mother Mary and St John the Baptist.

Now Elizabeth loves a ruin and could look at them all day long, in fact this was her second trip to Ephesus having visited ten years ago. Apparently the last trip involved a crayon and paper so she could take scratchings of the Roman and Greek scripts. Thankfully none of that happened this time. Upon exiting I suggested that after recent trips to Rome and the multiple sites at Istanbul that perhaps we had learnt all we needed to about Roman sites for the time being. Elizabeth reluctantly agreed.

As such we are headed to the coast tomorrow to Bodrum. Home to British mayhem in the summer, but apparently also some lovely beaches and some dive spots. So until then enjoy the pics below or view the full collection here. Also you can view our first attempt at video here (Youtube doesn’t seem to work in Turkey).

img 0635 thumb Ephesus

Applauding an amazing show at The Odeum Ephesus

img 0655 thumb Ephesus

The library at Ephesus

img 0645 thumb Ephesus

Ephesus High Street

Our current location can be viewed here.

lg share en Ephesus


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Ephesus

Gallipoli

img 0529 thumb Gallipoli

Australians, and I suspect Kiwis, learn a lot about the WWI landings at Gallipoli in school and in popular culture as kids and later. We learn of the heroism of the Australian soldiers, about the harsh conditions and steep hills the diggers faced and how misguided orders from officers wasted countless lives. But what we don’t learn is the role these battles played in defining the Turkish nation and the enormous sacrifices the Turks made.

The Turkish lost 86,000 soldiers during the battles at Gallipoli, though it is estimated another 250,000 died of injuries as a result of the battles. According to our guide today there was almost no family in Turkey that was not touched by a death as a result of defending the Gallipoli peninsula during the early stages of WWI. It was also the battle that was the making of Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk), who later went on to become the first president of the newly created Turkish republic and forge a legend like status that persists to this day.

The Gallipoli site is not a place that the Turks use to celebrate their victory, though they are very proud of the fact they successfully defended their land from the Allies. Instead the place is devoted to the loss of all lives and the friendship and respect that has flourished after the war.

It is a respectful, yet busy place. The site is filled with tour busses shuttling people between the multiple monuments and cemeteries. You see it is compulsory for all Turkish school students to visit the site and learn about the battles that happened there. It is also the site where 5,000 people  will gather next Saturday for dawn services and then other services at Turkish and ANZAC monuments all other the hills surrounding ANZAC Cove.

There is a certain draw for all Australians to Gallipoli. I think it is the closest thing we have to a pilgrimage site. At least that is how it feels to me. The place is so much a part of the Australian nation’s sense of self. I am glad I have made my pilgrimage and can only be forever thankful that unlike those that landed during WWI that I am able to visit distant parts of the world without fear of being shot or blown up.

Lest we forget.

img 0548 thumb Gallipoli

Large monument showcasing an extract of a speech by Atatürk. It reads:

Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives. You are now living in the soil of a friendly country therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours. You, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.

img 0534 thumb Gallipoli

ANZAC Cove where the troops first landed

img 0577 thumb Gallipoli

Lone Pine Cemetery with seating ready for ANZAC Day

img 0609 thumb Gallipoli

The Turkish 57th Regiment memorial

The Turkish 57th Regiment was wiped out in the very early fighting defending the peninsula from the initial invading Australian forces. Mustafa Kemal (Atatürk) instructed the soldiers – I do not order you to attack, I order you to die! In the time which passes until we die, other troops and commanders can take our place.” – to this day there is no 57th Regiment in the Turkish Army out of respect to these soldiers.

img 0562 thumb Gallipoli

Wild rosemary at ANZAC Cove

See all the images from Gallipoli here.


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Gallipoli

Istanbul not Constantinople

Apparently 12.5 million people live in Istanbul. Did you know that? I sure as hell didn’t, but according to Wikipedia it is true. So in essence the place is big, bloody big and extends far beyond where we have visited in our three days here.

Where we are staying, where most backpackers stay it seems, is Sultanahmet. It is a quaint enough spot right next to the Sea of Marmara and more importantly in the shadow of the massive and opposing structures Aya Sofia and The Blue Mosque. It is perfect for seeing the old town, but unfortunately is overly populated by spruikers for ‘authentic’ restaurants, carpet sellers and stalls selling shit.

The whole place it seems, is making last minute preparations for ‘the season’. A time when Aussies and Kiwis descend on Istanbul and Turkey more widely for ANZAC ceremonies at Gallipoli.  By arriving at Gallipoli in the next couple of days we should hopefully miss the over enthusiastic patriotism and the hordes. Expect pics from there soon.

So what have we done in Istanbul?

3447645553 1a4dda53c7 b Istanbul not Constantinople Well we visited the Blue Mosque at sunset

3448524270 3856c15b06 b Istanbul not Constantinople Have seen  Aya Sofia, both inside  (read description of what I am doing here)

3449811915 1bc51fa2fa b Istanbul not Constantinople

and out.

3448565346 d2b601ceb2 b Istanbul not ConstantinopleHaggled for and then ate too much Turkish delight from the Spice Bazaar. Despite instructing Elizabeth to flick her blonde hair that has the local men so enthralled, we still paid through the nose.

3448581176 b13981d2d8 b Istanbul not Constantinople After gorging ourselves on Turkish Delight we walked across the Galata Bridge, being sure to dodge the fishermen pulling tiny yet plentiful fish from the water below.

3448581176 b13981d2d8 b Istanbul not ConstantinopleOnce across the bridge we visited the Galata Tower built in 1348 and then enjoyed a spot of promenading on Istikal Caddesi before a few beers and  a meze dinner at Refik.

3449772823 f4b461040a b Istanbul not Constantinople 

Finally today we visited Topkapi Palace which is not nearly done justice in photographs3449800611 32a4a335e7 b Istanbul not Constantinopleand following a recommendation from Peter Bale visited the Basilica Cistern, an enormous water reservoir under the city. The reservoir was created in 52 AD and was made by pillaging ruined buildings from the BC period.

Tomorrow we leave for Canakkale on a 7.00 am ferry. From there we will visit the ancient site of Troy along with Gallipoli. I am especially looking forward to visiting Gallipoli. Until then check out all our Turley images here.

Copy and paste script

lg share en Istanbul not Constantinople


If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 Istanbul not Constantinople

One month and counting

It is exactly one month until Elizabeth and I fly the London nest and start our journey east along the Silk Road.

We are madly trying to wrap our lives up here in London and also starting to plan our return to Sydney. Elizabeth has an enormous spread sheet with actions to do and we are slowly ticking them off.

There are so many more things we will miss and likewise some things we won’t, but I will save that post to closer to our departure.

For now I want to share our itinerary as it currently stands (excuse spelling mistakes and it is far from final yet). Any advice people have on the itinerary or suggestions for other places to visit would be really appreciated.

Turkey 21 – days
Istanbul
Cannakale (Gallipoli & Troy)
Selcuk (Ephesus)
Parmukkale
Fethiye/Oludeniz
Faralya
Olympos
Antalya
Goreme
Istanbul – NIGHT FLIGHT
Uzbekistan 12 – days
Tashkent – Fly to Urgench
Urgench
Khiva
Bukhara
Sarmakand
[other place]
Tashkent
Border- Kazakh- to Bishek
Kyrgyzstan - 12 – days
Bishkek
Kochkor
[Karkol Valley] – trekking
Tash Rabat
Torugart Pass
China 30 – days
Kashgar
Turpan
Duanhuang (caves)
Xiahe
Xian
Beijing
Shangdong province stop
Shanghai
Hangzhou
Shanghai
Thailand 14 – days
TBC
Technorati Tags:

If you enjoyed this post why not subscribe to my blog via RSS or email by following this link. Also whilst you're at it why not follow me on Twitter.
share save 171 16 One month and counting