Fethiye

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ÖlĂŒdeniz

I think the picture above fairly accurately sums up the last four amazing days that we have spent in Fethiye – it has been a like a holiday from the holiday.

Whilst here we have taken the foot of the accelerator a little, have gone to bed early and woken without an alarm, eaten amazing home cooked meals from our guest house and spent our days roaming the countryside or along the coast in search of remote beaches and deserted villages. We enjoyed our first swim of 2009 (bloody cold, but oh so good) and counted down the clock each day until the call to prayer rang out at five marking what we deemed an appropriate time to have a beer. We contemplated taking a cruise for a couple of days along the coast to Olympos, but were enjoying doing our own thing and the friendly atmosphere at our pension so much we gave it a miss.

That is all I am going to write, this is my last night of the holiday from the holiday and sitting in front of a computer on a holiday is simply not the done thing. I will let the photos and videos tell the story instead.

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Every day at 5.00 we cracked open a beer in front of these two fishing boats and watched them bob back and forward

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Elizabeth enjoying her first swim of the season at ÖlĂŒdeniz

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After an eight kilometre walk over hills and through the bush we reached the village of Kayaköy, which consists of about 2000 deserted buildings. The inhabitants left after WWI and the war of independence. At the time it was deserted there was a large swap of Ottoman Christians from Greece, replaced by Muslim Greeks.

The scene above was what greeted us after a long 1.5 hour dolmuƟ (mini-bus) ride from Fethiye. It was a bloody steep walk down and we were slightly concerned that the next bus back wasn’t for another six hours. But that beach sure was enticing given the heat, so we bid the dolmuƟ farewell and scrambled down through the bush.

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This was what greeted us at the bottom. Though it was quite annoying that we had to share the beach with a whole two other people


See you at our next stop in Caß. All the shots from Fethiye can be seen here.

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Bodrum

Bodrum is a beautiful seaside town, home to warm weather, picturesque white homes and when summer rolls around sun burnt drunken package deal tourists.  We have missed the start of the season, but one definitely gets the feeling that this place is gearing up for an onslaught of alcohol fuelled mayhem . But when this happens we will be long gone – we leave for Fethiye tomorrow where we are hoping to hop on a yacht for a couple of days sailing the Aegean.

A nice spot to break our journey around the coast to enjoy the sun and the sea  (though haven’t managed a swim yet – wasn’t quite warm enough). It also afforded some nice scenery to take pictures of.

View from our window 300x170 BodrumView from our window with the hills in the background

Bodrum harbour BodrumBodrum Marina

Halikarnis BodrumHalikarnas

Halikarnas is a clubbers’ institution since the 1970s and can hold 5,000 people. Top international DJs perform over the summer and apparently it has a class IV laser – whatever that means. Thankfully it was closed when we were in Bodrum as it was just down the road from our hostel and if the sound checks were anything to go by causes quite a stir – quite disagreeable really


img 0720 thumb BodrumCastle of St Peter was built in 1402 and was originally a castle for the Crusades. It was in operation right up to the end of WWI

img 0751 thumb BodrumShe was offering us the map she was holding, but was happy to get her photo taken – check that pose!


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Ephesus

Nothing like an overnight bus to get you ready for the day ahead!

You see we arrived in Selçuk today at 7.00 am having spent the last 8 hours on a bus. Quite a nice bus, but still a bus and definitely not as good as the Argentinean buses that makes sleeping a dream. So stumbling in to the Australia New Zealand Pension (everything in Turkey in any way connected to tourism seems to tag Australia and New Zealand onto its name somehow) and being greeted with a broad Aussie-tinged Turkish accent telling us “rack off upstairs, there is a room free now, you guys must be buggered. Breaky is anytime before 10.00 am,” was pure bliss.

Having slept off the bus blues and brunched we took a stroll out to Ephesus, 3kms out of the town and which according to the book is the best preserved classical city in the east Mediterranean. The place is a pretty amazing site where the ruins have been put back together, at least in a fashion, to recreate the feeling of what the town would have looked like.

The place was a regional capital during Roman times and was home to stars you might remember from the bible, such as St Peter, The Blessed Mother Mary and St John the Baptist.

Now Elizabeth loves a ruin and could look at them all day long, in fact this was her second trip to Ephesus having visited ten years ago. Apparently the last trip involved a crayon and paper so she could take scratchings of the Roman and Greek scripts. Thankfully none of that happened this time. Upon exiting I suggested that after recent trips to Rome and the multiple sites at Istanbul that perhaps we had learnt all we needed to about Roman sites for the time being. Elizabeth reluctantly agreed.

As such we are headed to the coast tomorrow to Bodrum. Home to British mayhem in the summer, but apparently also some lovely beaches and some dive spots. So until then enjoy the pics below or view the full collection here. Also you can view our first attempt at video here (Youtube doesn’t seem to work in Turkey).

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Applauding an amazing show at The Odeum Ephesus

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The library at Ephesus

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Ephesus High Street

Our current location can be viewed here.

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Gallipoli

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Australians, and I suspect Kiwis, learn a lot about the WWI landings at Gallipoli in school and in popular culture as kids and later. We learn of the heroism of the Australian soldiers, about the harsh conditions and steep hills the diggers faced and how misguided orders from officers wasted countless lives. But what we don’t learn is the role these battles played in defining the Turkish nation and the enormous sacrifices the Turks made.

The Turkish lost 86,000 soldiers during the battles at Gallipoli, though it is estimated another 250,000 died of injuries as a result of the battles. According to our guide today there was almost no family in Turkey that was not touched by a death as a result of defending the Gallipoli peninsula during the early stages of WWI. It was also the battle that was the making of Mustafa Kemal (AtatĂŒrk), who later went on to become the first president of the newly created Turkish republic and forge a legend like status that persists to this day.

The Gallipoli site is not a place that the Turks use to celebrate their victory, though they are very proud of the fact they successfully defended their land from the Allies. Instead the place is devoted to the loss of all lives and the friendship and respect that has flourished after the war.

It is a respectful, yet busy place. The site is filled with tour busses shuttling people between the multiple monuments and cemeteries. You see it is compulsory for all Turkish school students to visit the site and learn about the battles that happened there. It is also the site where 5,000 people  will gather next Saturday for dawn services and then other services at Turkish and ANZAC monuments all other the hills surrounding ANZAC Cove.

There is a certain draw for all Australians to Gallipoli. I think it is the closest thing we have to a pilgrimage site. At least that is how it feels to me. The place is so much a part of the Australian nation’s sense of self. I am glad I have made my pilgrimage and can only be forever thankful that unlike those that landed during WWI that I am able to visit distant parts of the world without fear of being shot or blown up.

Lest we forget.

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Large monument showcasing an extract of a speech by AtatĂŒrk. It reads:

Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives. You are now living in the soil of a friendly country therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours. You, the mothers, who sent their sons from faraway countries wipe away your tears; your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.

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ANZAC Cove where the troops first landed

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Lone Pine Cemetery with seating ready for ANZAC Day

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The Turkish 57th Regiment memorial

The Turkish 57th Regiment was wiped out in the very early fighting defending the peninsula from the initial invading Australian forces. Mustafa Kemal (AtatĂŒrk) instructed the soldiers – “I do not order you to attack, I order you to die! In the time which passes until we die, other troops and commanders can take our place.” – to this day there is no 57th Regiment in the Turkish Army out of respect to these soldiers.

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Wild rosemary at ANZAC Cove

See all the images from Gallipoli here.


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Istanbul not Constantinople

Apparently 12.5 million people live in Istanbul. Did you know that? I sure as hell didn’t, but according to Wikipedia it is true. So in essence the place is big, bloody big and extends far beyond where we have visited in our three days here.

Where we are staying, where most backpackers stay it seems, is Sultanahmet. It is a quaint enough spot right next to the Sea of Marmara and more importantly in the shadow of the massive and opposing structures Aya Sofia and The Blue Mosque. It is perfect for seeing the old town, but unfortunately is overly populated by spruikers for ‘authentic’ restaurants, carpet sellers and stalls selling shit.

The whole place it seems, is making last minute preparations for ‘the season’. A time when Aussies and Kiwis descend on Istanbul and Turkey more widely for ANZAC ceremonies at Gallipoli.  By arriving at Gallipoli in the next couple of days we should hopefully miss the over enthusiastic patriotism and the hordes. Expect pics from there soon.

So what have we done in Istanbul?

3447645553 1a4dda53c7 b Istanbul not Constantinople Well we visited the Blue Mosque at sunset

3448524270 3856c15b06 b Istanbul not Constantinople Have seen  Aya Sofia, both inside  (read description of what I am doing here)

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and out.

3448565346 d2b601ceb2 b Istanbul not ConstantinopleHaggled for and then ate too much Turkish delight from the Spice Bazaar. Despite instructing Elizabeth to flick her blonde hair that has the local men so enthralled, we still paid through the nose.

3448581176 b13981d2d8 b Istanbul not Constantinople After gorging ourselves on Turkish Delight we walked across the Galata Bridge, being sure to dodge the fishermen pulling tiny yet plentiful fish from the water below.

3448581176 b13981d2d8 b Istanbul not ConstantinopleOnce across the bridge we visited the Galata Tower built in 1348 and then enjoyed a spot of promenading on Istikal Caddesi before a few beers and  a meze dinner at Refik.

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Finally today we visited Topkapi Palace which is not nearly done justice in photographs3449800611 32a4a335e7 b Istanbul not Constantinopleand following a recommendation from Peter Bale visited the Basilica Cistern, an enormous water reservoir under the city. The reservoir was created in 52 AD and was made by pillaging ruined buildings from the BC period.

Tomorrow we leave for Canakkale on a 7.00 am ferry. From there we will visit the ancient site of Troy along with Gallipoli. I am especially looking forward to visiting Gallipoli. Until then check out all our Turley images here.

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The ten things I will and won't miss about living in the UK

2968670187 8b2b63871e o The ten things I will and won't miss about living in the UKToday sadly is my last full day in the UK before I leave to travel home to Sydney, Australia. I am genuinely sad to be leaving London. A short two and a half year stint doesn’t feel long enough to do this city justice, but I am not sure that ten years would. London is an amazing city filled with interesting things to see, people to be inspired by and opportunities that few other places can afford. Yet it is sooo far from family and the life I grew up with. So with many mixed feelings Elizabeth and I will board a plane tomorrow  to start an extended tour home.

We will be back without a doubt, but will it be for an extended stay again? Difficulty to say, life has a habit of spoiling long term plans, but I wouldn’t be the slightest bit surprised if one of my future locals sold warm beer.

In the tradition of my English friend, Alan, who has recently returned to the UK after spending three and a half years living in Sydney, I will list the ten things I will miss about the UK and the ten things I definitely won’t miss.

Like Alan, the miss column was populated much more easily than the won’t miss one.

Miss:

  1. Warm beer – almost sacrilegious for an Aussie to say, but I have grown rather partial to an English ale
  2. The BBC – worth every single penny of the TV licence charge
  3. British creativity – there is a certain braveness and confidence that Brits have in forging ahead with a locally sourced solution that Aussies could learn a lot from
  4. Proximity to Europe – a two hour flight from Sydney might land you in Bathurst, which is a nice enough spot, but it is hardly Rome
  5. Northern hemisphere – things just make much more sense when you reside in the northern hemisphere, not least Santa’s attire
  6. London Underground – people who complain about the tube obviously have no idea how bad public transport is everywhere else
  7. Wit – they may not be good looking, they may not be the fittest, but by god English blokes are funny
  8. British postcodes – weird I know, but it makes locating something so very easy
  9. Twilight – having light until 10.30 pm in Summer is bloody brilliant, worth the darkness in Winter? Not sure, but perhaps
  10. Flamin Hot Monster Munch – strange I know, childish without a doubt, but oh so tasty

Won’t miss:

  1. Bureaucracy – getting things done in this country can often times be tough, hampered in no small part by cost cutting measures that have meant you deal with people half a world away, rewarded on quick call times rather than providing a customer satisfactory solution
  2. A spade is a shovel, or a pick axe isn’t it? – a spade is a spade peoples, be a bit more direct with your communication and you might find people understand what you are after
  3. The stiff upper lip – may have meant something in the past, but tends to mean moaning about things without trying to fix them today
  4. Victorian plumbing – though in all fairness Australia could benefit from the reduced water wasted with minimal water pressure
  5. Summer – it really should last longer than a weekend
  6. Daily Mail – a scary, scary newspaper made scarier when you understand the influence and readership it commands
  7. No surf – it isn’t much fun for a die hard surfer to be living in a city without a decent break
  8. Aussies in London – there are a lot of young Aussies here that seem to have come with no other purpose than to tell the English how shit their weather is and how bad they are at sport – I apologise on behalf of all of them
  9. Boozing – British pubs have a siren call that can grab you any night of the week regardless of your other good intentions
  10. Misplaced sentimentality – the enormous outpouring of public emotion after the Cutty Sark burnt down or when Woolworths shut its door were really a bit too much – there are much more important things to mourn the passing of

And so with that I will bid you farewell London. Next post will be from Istanbul Turkey.

The image at the top was stolen from Bellyanz1 here.

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Did you know?

Hat tip Tom Harrow.

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Quattro giorni a Roma

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Rome is one of those places you feel like you’ve been even if you have never visited. The city’s landmarks, history and culture pervade our history books, education and our consciousness like few other places.

Rome and the powerful empire that once extended from the city has always  held a certain fascination for me. I remember vividly, borrowing textbooks from the school library that explained the Roman Empire and the battles it fought. I studied ancient history at high school and even took classics subjects at university where I studied ancient Roman texts. In fact, such was my devotion that I may be the only Asterix and Obelix fan that wanted the powerful Romans to overcome those pesky Gauls.

Whilst my passion has been replaced by other things in more recent times, there was still no way that I was going to end my time living in Europe without visiting Roma. And the city didn’t let me down.

It was a flying visit, but we still managed to take in the landmark sites:

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The Colosseum – like you didn’t know


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St Peter’s Basilica

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The Forum and ancient Rome

3422811125 14d65db4ac b Quattro giorni a Roma The Pantheon

But we also did all those clichéd tourist things you simply have to do when visiting. Like:

3423573960 f4ecf3d742 b Quattro giorni a Roma Throwing a coin over your left shoulder at the Trevi Fountain, so that you will visit Rome again

3422819639 e686c6e833 b Quattro giorni a RomaHanging out at the Spanish steps whilst checking out all the pretty young things

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Laughing at the men in their silly pantaloons

3422795561 1f3ba7887c b Quattro giorni a Roma And sneaking a dodgy shot of the Sistine Chapel roof whilst the guard is not looking.

We strolled around Villa Borghese, Trastevere and spent time in the many beautiful piazzas.

And of course we ate handsomely. Enjoying meals at Cul de Sac (the city’s oldest wine bar), Trattoria (thanks Matt Muir), Gusto, Pizza Remo, Obika (there is one of these at Selfridges in London) and had amazing espresso coffee at too many places to mention.

So that was Roma. Our last European city break before embarking on our trip back home. It didn’t hold too many surprises (well beyond the quake), as I said at the start, we all know it too well for it to do that, but that made it no less amazing.

Check out all our photos here.

Ciao ragazzi!

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Italy earthquake

diapositiva11 Italy earthquake

I posted the tweet above a couple of minutes after this week’s Italian earthquake. The quake measured 6.3 on the Richter scale and mainly hit L’Aquila, a town roughly 60 miles north of Rome. Little did I know at that time that time that tragically up to 207 people would die.

The quake brought back memories of the last quake I experienced in Newcastle Australia in 1989 – that was a 5.5 quake and 12 people were killed then.

Pretty scary stuff and hugely thankful that I was affected only in the fact that I was woken up. The next day life in Rome was completely normal by my reckoning except for the news in the media.

Plenty of examples already, but it was amazing to experience first hand how quickly and effectively Twitter spread the news of the quake. Minutes after tweeting the above I was receiving replies with links to Reuters detailing news on the scale. Within ten minutes I was being retweeted by people as a live quake Tweeter. The BBC had contacted me within 20 minutes to conduct an interview. Nothing came of the interview. Not necessarily surprising given the fact, my thankfully calm post quake experience went something like this – ‘I emerged onto the streets to hear no sirens and only see a few people calmly standing around before they returned to bed.’

My thoughts go out to the people that have suffered as a result of this quake. Should you be interested you can donate to The Red Cross at this address.

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Alpine Legend

As soon as I move back to Aus and have enough room to store the yodel pipe I am getting this game. Looks amazing


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